Friday, May 24, 2013

The Rind - Sacramento, CA - Opening Day (5-23-2013)

I feel like there was a big hype around The Rind.  I also feel like I'm wrong about that.

You see, a friend of mine told about this place, that it was opening up soon.  After checking it out on Yelp, I found out that it specializes in wine, beer, and cheese.  Awesome, I thought... we need a place for cheese lovers here in Sacramento.

Located in Midtown Sacramento on L St., where it occupies the old L Wine Bar spot, The Rind is a small place with a small menu serving small samples of cheese.  It's a nice little place; the decor doesn't really leave a huge impression, but it's bright, inviting, and seems like a fun place to sit, hang out, have a glass of wine or two or six, and sample some cheese.

Their wine list was unexpectedly small.  They also have a selection of craft beers, both bottled and draft - the kind you'd find only at places that specialize in carrying premium beers, like gastropubs or bars such as The Shack, Kupros, or, in this case, The Rind.

It was fairly warm on opening day.  While I usually default to reds, I decided to go with a white wine.  Based on our first cheese board's pairing suggestions (which I didn't want) and my tastes, our server pointed to a dry riesling, which was damn good.

Speaking of service, it is nice enough and they've obviously been briefed about the food they're serving.  Being opening day they did seem a little scattered.  It got relatively busy and I can only imagine how close to a dress rehearsal the day must have seemed like.

There are three prix fixe cheese boards, the cheeses being grouped by a common trait.  The night's cheese menu features a sheep's milk board, a "macho" cheese board that consisted of Chimay cheese and a gouda, and a soft cheese board.  Each cheese board comes with different accompaniments, such as fruit, nuts, honey... the usual stuff.

We started with the board of soft cheeses, the "Purgatory Board".  The wine paired very well, the dryness complimenting the stronger flavors of the cheese in a way that makes you go, "Oh... that's nice."  I ordered a second glass of the same wine before we'd decided to get a second board - sheep's milk cheese - which was comprised of semi-soft cheese.  These had subtler, nuttier, mellower flavors.  My "accidental" wine pairing wasn't bad, but didn't give me that, "Oh!" pronouncement of flavor.

They offer a fourth board built of cheese of your choice, so you basically have twelve cheeses to choose from.  Their cheese menu is subject to change, which I think is a good thing as it keeps the offerings fresh.

There are other things on the menu - salads and soups - but the main attraction, other than the cheese boards, are the mac-n-cheese and the grilled cheese sandwiches.  While we didn't partake of these dishes, I'd say those are smart things to have on the menu.  It gives the cheese a cooked application in a manner that is familiar but with some liberties.

During our visit, I did wish there was a charcuterie plate.  Lo and behold, their website shows they're supposed to have one.  Perhaps they were just limiting their menu for opening day.  However, I would have spent more money if it had been offered.

Prices are very, very resonable for a place that serves fine cheese.  $12 for a prix fixe cheese board while the choose-your-own ("The Diving Board") is $14, if I remember correctly.  They do sell some wine by the glass.  Between four glasses of wine and two cheese boards, we got out of there for around $65 before tip.

I'm not quite sure how I'd rate The Rind just yet, or if I should rate it at all right now.  It was the first day and there will be some kinks to work out and probably even some changes.  While I am the type of person that wants to see the A-game right out of the gate, I know that's not how things always work.  I would be inclined to rate the place 3.5 stars if you were ask me right now, but not because it's an average place.  For what it's trying to do - bringing artisan cheeses to restaurant-going cheese lovers - it is unique.  There are some places in Sacramento that offer cheese plates but nowhere that is cheese-centric like The Rind (not counting fondue).  The wine and beer list, while good, are pretty small for a restaurant whose slogan is "Cheese. Wine.  Beer."  But perhaps my expectations were too high.  For example, when I go to a place that is supposed to specialize in wine, I expect an extensive list.

Then again, maybe they're being very selective, catering their drink selection to the cheeses they're currently serving.  And that would be very reasonable.  And smart.  And interesting.  And educational.  All things I can support.  If that's the case, they might do well to make mention of that on their menu so that customers know the proprietors want to present specific food and drink selections they know to work well together and that is what is going to enhance the eating experience of each diner that visitsThe Rind.

But, if that's not the case, then really the place becomes a little cafe that centers around cheese.

No matter the case, Sacramento now has a place for cheese lovers.  I'm not going to give The Rind an official rating just yet.  I'm going to go back.  I'm going to drink and I'm going to eat.  Until then, I say: if you love cheese, wine, and beer, give this nice little place a shot.

1801 L Street
Suite 40
Sacramento, CA 95811

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