Kupros Bistro - Sacramento, CA

I've been to Kupros several times.  Many times.

Okay, I'm a bit of a regular.  Semi-regular, but a regular nonetheless.  I've become a familiar with a couple of the waitresses and bartenders, and those I've become familiar with know my name.  I've had many beers and sampled much of the food.

And in the time I've been going to Kupros my opinion hasn't really changed, but, in fact, has become reinforced by multiple visits.

I really, really like the place, but it's actually just a pretty good place to visit.

Let's start with the service.  It's the first thing you notice when you walk in and take a seat at the bar.  When a bar is busy, you don't expect to be acknowledged right away.  You need to wait until the bartender gets to you.  It's the nature of a busy bar.  But when a bar isn't busy, when there are plenty of open seats, you - I - expect to be acknowledged, either with a, "Be right with you," or a nod, or... something.

Customer acknowledgement is iffy at Kupros.  Some of the bartenders will acknowledge you.  Especially if they know you.  Other times, you can sit down at an empty bar but you'll be waiting five to ten minutes while the bartender is off in their own world.  Possibly at the cash register.  Okay, he/she is working.  Or they're talking to another co-worker.  Okay, he/she is wor- oh, nope, they're laughing and just hanging out.  I've found it's not a big deal; when you go to a bar, you're there to relax, so there's no rush to have someone come and serve you, but I do find it odd that when the bar is near empty the service isn't more immediate.

Now, despite the deficiency in greeting, the service itself - the actual service - is very, very friendly.  Most of the people I've met there are really nice, make conversation, and make you feel welcome once they've acknowledged you.  When there's time, expect to make small talk with one of the bartenders or a server that is in between tables.  When I'm there, I don't feel like I'm just another number out for alcohol.  I feel relaxed, invited, and befriended.  It can be hard to just leave after paying the tab without saying goodbye and thank you to the person who has served you.

The service is befitting the environment, because it really is a good-looking house. Literally.  It's a house that's been beautifully remodeled.  It really is a comfortable place to go and have a drink and a bite to eat.  It's replete with semi-dark wood but not in a gaudy way.  The stained glass above the bar adds a splash of color in an otherwise brown room, which give the room a bit of life.  The bar is smack dab in the middle with tables lining the perimeter and there's seating upstairs for a more private, quieter time.

Now, let's get to the food.

When a small plate listing is titled "Mixed Greens" and described as being a plate of mixed, seasonal vegetables, and what is served is just a spring-mix salad with a vinaigrette, one does feel a large sense of disappointment.  And psychology does have a great affect on how one perceives their meal.  So, as you can imagine, when I received my plate of the so-called "Mixed Greens", I wondered why I got the smallest salad in the world.

Kupros serves a variety of fries, from regular to garlic, from sweet to poutine, the Canadian staple of fries, gravy, and cheese curds.  Fries, in my opinion, should be crispy on the outside.  I'm pretty sure that the opinion of the majority of French fry lovers.  And for good reason.  Soggy fries and just not fun to eat.  A crispy fry provides a contrast of textures in a single bite: the crisp crunch of the golden, brown, and delicious outside, and the soft, mealy inside.

I have not once had a crispy French fry at Kupros.

The fries at Kupros are pretty one-dimensional in texture.  When they arrive, they appear brown and tasty, but they're flimsy and floppy, no matter how thick they are.  You can see the oil glistening in the ambient lighting, but when you bite into one you may as well be biting into a roasted potato stick.  There could be any number of reasons for such a soft French fry: perhaps they don't blanch them beforehand, prepping them to be finished off in hot, hot oil; maybe they sit in the window too long before they're run to the table; maybe the oil isn't hot enough.  In any case, a soggy fry is an unappetizing fry, even when covered in gravy and cheese curds.

(And yes, there's a difference between a soft fry and a fry that's crisp but softened by gravy)

There are other deficiencies in the food, but to get to the point, the best food you can order at Kupros is the hearty comfort food.  The mac-and-cheese is good.  The pappardelle with puttanesca is a favorite of mine, when it's on the menu.  The chicken piccata is light and simple yet very enjoyable.  The burger, while note quite worth $11, is quite good - too much cheese, though, and reminiscent of a Squeeze Inn-style burger but without the actual fried cheese skirt.  But, decent enough.  Filling, tasty, and featuring good ingredients.

When you've got a little bit of money but want a decent amount of food, they do offer a 3-small-plates-for-$10 deal, which gives you a good sampling and is enough for a small, shared meal for two.

And let's not forget about the liquor.  They have a good collection of whiskey and Scotch, a small wine list, and plenty of beer.  They have good draft selection and as well as a premium bottled selection.  They even have domestic swill on hand for those that like to drink beer-flavored soda water on the cheap.

So, why do I like the place so much?  Comfort.  It's such a comfortable place to go and have a drink, get some enjoyable food, and sit.  I feel welcome there.  I like the environment.  I feel sociable, even when I'm not in a social mood.  It's just... nice.  It's really, really nice.  It's such an easy place to become a regular at that I've become a regular.  And I enjoy it.

The verdict?

	I would never go to another bar.
	I frequent this place like I frequent my own refrigerator.
	As comfortable as a good lounge chair.
	It'll do in a pinch.
	Why bother?

I give Kupros 3.5 stars.  I feel comfortable and invited every time I come here, and I do come here often enough to be considered a regular customer.  It's not the greatest place you can go to for food and drink, but it's still quite good.

Kupros Bistro

1217 21st Street

Sacramento, CA 95811

(916) 440-0401
www.kuprosbistro.com