Saturday, April 17, 2010

I poached my first...

...egg.

I poached my first egg.

Sadly, I had not eaten a poached egg until fairly recently. The first time being a few months ago, in fact, and I had more just last week for brunch. I like them very much. They're delicate, creamy, and are great with toast... which is why I guess toast is such a popular accompaniment with poached eggs.

So, I wanted to try poaching an egg at home. My thoughts drifted back to the movie Julie and Julia (a wonderful movie), in particular the scene where Julie was about to poach her first eggs.

And she failed. And failed. And failed. Until finally, she got it right.

It's actually not that difficult, at least it wasn't for me. Granted, I only poached a single egg, but as long as I'm able to recreate the same conditions and use the same approach, there's no reason why I would fail in my future endeavors.

First, I referred to Jacques Pepin's Complete Techniques. About 2-3 quarts of water. Check. White vinegar. Check. Fresh egg. Check. Bowl of ice water. Check.

Time to go in.

The result? Brunch at home: a leftover chicken salad made with mixed spring greens and tomatoes, a simple Dijon vinaigrette, and a poached egg.


IngredientPrep/Use

MEAT AND PROTEINS
Chicken, roasted or rotisseried
shredded or chopped into small strips. Mix with the salad
1 large fresh egg


PRODUCE
Mixed spring greens
for the salad, of course
1 tomato
chopped, for the salad

SEASONINGS
pinch of kosher salt
black pepper

LIQUIDS
*Note that I did not measure the liquids and the amounts listed below are approximations. You should use the amounts desired.
extra virgin olive oil (approx. 1/4 cup or amount desired)for the vinaigrette
white wine vinegar (approx. 2 tbsp or amount desired)
for the vinaigrette
2 tbsp Dijon mustardfor the vinaigrette
white vinegar
for the egg (helps firm the egg white)
water
for the egg (see hardware)

HARDWARE
saucepan or small pot
for poaching the egg
2 bowls
1 with ice water, the with clean water for washing the vinegar off the egg
1 small prep bowl
for the egg
slotted spoon
for the egg


For the vinaigrette, whisk the white wine vinegar (not the white vinegar!), the Dijon, salt, black pepper, and olive oil together until smooth.

For the poaching of the egg:
  1. Bring 2-3 quarts of water and the white vinegar to a boil in the saucepan or small pot.
  2. Once the water comes to a boil, reduce to a simmer.
    • A simmer, by the way, is the state of a liquid that is just under a boil. It is sometimes referred to as a "gentle boil", and small bubbles will rise to the surface as opposed to the large bubbles you'll find in a rolling boil.
  3. Break an egg open into the small prep bowl.
  4. As close to the water's surface as possible, slide the egg into the water. Use the slotted spoon to gently lift the egg from the bottom of the pan.
  5. Let the egg simmer for about 3-4 minutes, depending on how firm you want the egg.
  6. With the slotted spoon, remove the egg and place in the ice water to stop the cooking. Then, move the egg to the bowl of clean water to wash off the rest of the vinegar.
    • If you don't want to serve cold, then don't leave the egg in the ice water too long.
  7. Drain the water from the egg (using a separate rack or carefully with the spoon) and place atop the salad.
If you want a hot poached egg, Pepin says to place the finished poached egg in boiling water for about a minute to reheat, then drain and serve.

Saturday, April 10, 2010

Food for thought (get it?): Overeating

I tend to overeat.

Not that I'm fat. Far from it. I'm certainly not at my college weight anymore, but in my "adult" life I've gained a bit of weight that I could do without. Part of it is that I'm not as physically active anymore (something I'm trying to rectify), and part of it is that as I get older, I become more and more obsessed with food.

I have always loved food. I like eating. As I get older, my palate broadens. I still love a fat, juicy burger, a pizza, and rich pastas, but I also love a light orzo salad, bruschetta on toasted baguette, raw oysters, a chicken salad... it's all good, as long as the dish is balanced and tasty. Fatty does not always equal tasty. Salty does not always equal tasty. I want to taste the food. If there's mozzarella, tomatoes, extra virgin olive oil, and basil, I want to taste all of those things together and separately. I don't want tons of salt hiding it all.

This isn't to say I don't love salty or fatty foods, but I know there's more to great tasting food than that.

It's that taste that I crave, but my body wants more than a regular-sized portion. Maybe that stems from my childhood, when my youngest sister and I used to argue over who could eat more (a contest best left to the young with high metabolism). Or maybe it's an extension of whatever obsessive-compulsive tendencies I have (a lot). Perhaps it's the one part of my personality that is addictive.

I read a few different articles on overeating. Here's one from Web MD.

So, basically, fat, salt, and sugar are like drugs and my body responds to those stimuli as substances that give pleasure. This pleasurable reaction to such foods also cause us to seek out other, similar foods. The solution? Set a time for eating and know how you're going to eat, which I take to mean this: know you're going to eat at 7 PM at a restaurant, for example, and plan on only eating half your meal. Also? Set rules, like not eating between meals, and when you do eat, don't think, "Wow, all this food is going to be awesome!" Instead, think,"If I eat too much of this, I'll feel pretty bad afterwards."

After reading the article, I laughed. It all seemed like something out of a cheesy self-help book. The tips may prove useful, but there are some things to think about.

First, set meal times don't always pan out for the busy American, which is a shame to let the hustle and bustle of life rule us (but that's another topic). We often eat when we can, and this means sometimes we'll be less hungry, sometimes we'll be more hungry. The notion of not eating between meals actually contradicts something else that I've heard, which is the habit of eating smaller meals more often throughout the day (more on that later).

Second, as far as how you think about your meal ("If I eat all this food, I'll feel gross, like a mass of fat in a chair"), why think of it negatively? Food should be pleasurable. Eating should be a pleasurable experience, whether you're eating on the go or sitting down with your family. Though eating is a necessity of survival, it's pleasurable and we should enjoy it. If you're staring at a huge plate of food, it might be better to avoid negativity and instead let yourself know that you'll enjoy the food until you feel content. Not full, not stuffed, just content. Stop when you've had enough.

Speaking of which...

This short article addresses the notion of portions versus listening to your body. Apparently, people feel the need to eat the food in front of them, regardless if their body is telling them they've had enough (which makes you wonder, is that mom's fault? "Finish your food or no dessert!").

Alton Brown, one of my food heroes, mentions dissatisfaction as a catalyst for overeating (from question 4 in this Slashdot interview):

There are no bad foods, only bad food habits. I eat cream, butter, and bacon; I just don't eat pounds of it at a time. I use these things when they are needed in recipes and leave them out when they're not needed. As for substitutes, I only agree with them if they really don't change a person's response to a dish. Take mashed potatoes for instance. I recently saw a recipe that suggested that the fat we all know that mashers need could be replaced with vegetable broth. Hogwash. All that does is lead to dissatisfaction and I think that dissatisfaction results in overeating. We like fats because fats satisfy. They break down in the digestive track very slowly so they keep us fuller longer. Now if I find a way to replace a fatty ingredient without missing it (I do this a lot with yogurt) then you bet I'm going to do it. But I repeat: there are no bad foods.

How does dissatisfaction lead to overeating? He seems to imply that when the fats are removed from foods that would otherwise have fats in them, people may eat more because it will take more food to make them feel full. Interesting. This may not be the only reason dissatisfaction leads to overeating, however. What I think may also happen is this: when one is dissatisfied with what they're eating, they will seek out something else that satisfies them, regardless of the fact that they've just eaten.

Now, I don't plan on giving up any foods. I like burgers, and I like salads. I like beer, and I like water. What I need to do is eat less. And this will take some doing, because I'm used to eating a lot, which means that it requires a lot of food until I feel full. But, as stated earlier, I'm going to have to eat until I'm content. This means that when my belly has a good amount of food in it, and I know that eating more will make me feel "full" - stuffed, as it were - I should stop. I'm hoping that sooner or later, "content" will become the new "full" and that the old "full" will become "Good God, I'm giving birth to a banquet."

How will I do this? At home, I'm going to have to limit myself to a single plate or bowl of food. At a restaurant, I should eat half of my order. After eating that amount, I will need to ascertain the following: Am I still hungry? And I mean literally hungry. If I'm not hungry, if I'm at that point right before I feel full, I won't eat anymore. My taste buds might whine and cry, but like a toddler throwing a tantrum, I can't give in.

The other thing I'm going to try, in addition to eating smaller meals, is to eat small snacks throughout the day.

That's right. I'm going to eat more often in an attempt to eat less.

Eating mini-meals throughout the day has been a point of contention in the nutrition community. Here are three articles addressing the point: The New York Times, Medicinenet.com, and AskMen.com. And here's something from chef and Food Network personality Giada De Laurentiis on her eating habits, and if you've ever seen her, she's very slender:

1. How is it possible to be a chef and stay in such great shape?
I have to say that this is by far the question I am most frequently asked, and my answer is always the same: genetics, portion control and fresh ingredients. If you’ve ever seen my mother either on the show or in photographs, you’ll notice that she is quite petite, trim. So I have her to thank for getting me off to a good start. In addition, I’ve never been one to sit down to a meal with a large plate of food and eat every morsel until I was uncomfortably full. Rather, I graze – eating small portions of food all day long. And the ingredients are clean and fresh. Yes, I absolutely love chocolate, and I do eat it but just a bite.


The idea I like is this: if I snack in between regular meals, when it comes time to eat those regular meals I won't be super hungry, thus I'll eat less. There are a lot of times I go hours and hours without eating and, therefore, when I do sit down to eat, I'm incredibly hungry and eat a lot of food. By eating in small quantities throughout the day, I should cut down on how hungry I am by the time I'm ready to eat a regular meal. And while this might seem like I'll be eating more, I won't be eating too much in one sitting, which is really bad because that's putting tons of food into my stomach all at one, which basically just stretches it out, and that's a big problem. By minimizing how hungry I am in between meals, I should be able eat less in the long run.

I'll have to do more research into the whole mini-meal concept to see about medical benefits - after all, there are arguments for and against it. In the meantime, I need to find an answer to this question:

What the hell am I going to do about the holidays?!

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Slow-cooker carnitas: Attempt #1

It was March 19, 2010 when I used our slow cooker for the first time.  After spending a few days researching the pros and cons to several slow cookers, we decided on a Hamilton Beach 6-qt programmable slow cooker.

The thing did me right.

My first dish was slow-cooker carnitas.  I knew that was going to be my first dish.  I had no doubt in my mind that it wasn't going to be stew, beef bourguignon, or soup.  No, it was going to be pulled pork, and not just any pulled pork... I wanted carnitas.

What exactly are carnitas?  According to Rachel Laudan, historian, scientist, and food writer, carnitas, Mexican-Spanish for "little meats", are little chunks of pork cooked in its own fat.  For many of us here in America, Epicurious' definition basically says it all: it's small bits or shreds of pork, made from an inexpensive cut.  Check out Rachel Laudan's site for something more authentically Mexican in description.

I didn't have a whole pig, and I didn't even know at the time that it was more authentic to use one.  I just figured I'd get a pork shoulder, thrown in some spices, and make some mouth-watering pulled pork, Mexican style.

So, I did.

I referenced several recipes for spices and cooking times.  Every recipe had something different to offer: some cooked the pork on high, some low; some cooked for a shorter time while others cooked for about 10 hours.  I found a recipe that used no liquid at all (the juices from the meat would have provided the liquid, eventually).

In addition, there were some spices and herbs that I just wasn't going to buy.  I'm broke, and I wanted to use as much of what I already had in my kitchen as possible.  Anything I was going to buy needed to be used either immediately or fairly frequently.  Therefore, I did not buy bay leaves.

I also did not want to use water, which is a popular liquid used in many recipes.  I wanted to use something with flavor (a la Alton Brown's philosophy) since I was going to keep the liquid once the cooking was finished.

After referencing several recipes, I assembled the following:

IngredientPrep/Use

MEAT
6 lbs pork shouldertrim large chunks of excess fat around outside of shoulder

PRODUCE
1 onionquartered, leaves separated

SEASONINGS
1 1/2 tbsp kosher salt
1 1/2 tbsp garlic powder
1 1/2 tbsp ground cumin
3/4 tsp oregano
1 1/2 tsp cinnamon

LIQUIDS
1 bottle Shiner Bock or beer of choicefor braising
olive oilfor searing pork

HARDWARE
large skilletfor searing
slow cookerfor the long, long braise


  1. Place the onions in the crock, spreading them out on the bottom.
  2. If the pork shoulder has bone, remove the bone and cut the meat into large pieces.  If there is no bone, leave in one large piece, if desired, or cut into large sections.
    • When it comes time to sear, you have the potential for more flavor if you sear several chunks rather than the entire shoulder as you will be searing more surface area with the chunks.
  3. Heat the skillet on medium high heat.
  4. Combine the seasonings into a large bowl. Place the meat into the bowl to coat with seasonings.
  5. Add the olive oil to coat the bottom of the skillet. Once the oil is hot, brown the meat on all sides. Do in batches, if necessary.  Once browned, place the pieces on top of the onions in the crock.
  6. Add the bottle of beer, making sure all the pieces of meat are at least partially submerged in the liquid.
  7. Secure the lid on the slow cooker and cook for 8.5 hours on low. Be sure to turn the meat over halfway through cooking.
  8. Remove meat to a separate bowl when done. Pull meat apart and place back into liquid in the slow cooker.


VERDICT:

We served the carnitas with tortillas (corn or flour), with a simple guacamole, minced onions, and cheddar cheese available should one desire them. I personally skipped the cheese, not because I don't like cheese but I didn't want to many things getting in the way of the meat, which I wanted to be in the spotlight.

The meat turned out awesome, but there was a little too much cinnamon.  Meat also gave up a lot of liquid (not necessarily a bad thing) and I ended up pouring a little out.

Next time, I may cut back on the cinnamon. I also have a theory that Shiner Bock, being a beer with a crisp, wheat flavor, may bring out the cinnamon flavor. I have no scientific proof of this, just that when I had a Shiner Bock with the meal the wheat flavor seemed to pair well with the cinnamon aspect of the meat, which caused me to believe that the beer may have enhanced this spice. It’s something I’ll have to look into.

Also, perhaps use half a beer instead of a whole, next time. This will reduce the amount of liquid at the end… and I’ll get to drink the other half.

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

The anniversary meals: The Balcony Bistro and Ella Dining Room and Bar

The wife and I had our wedding anniversary a few months ago.  Here are the reviews for the places we ate:

Balcony Bistro – Folsom, CA

Ella Dining Room and Bar – Sacramento, CA


These reviews reveal a few things about me:

  1. I like clean dishes.  Please, if you're going to serve other people, make sure your dishes are clean.  A fork with leftover food or a glass with lip imprints can be quite the culinary turn-off.
  2. I love... LOVE... good food.  Good food can and will make me quite verbose if you get me talking about it. Couple that with the fact that...
  3. I really appreciate good service.  If the food is good, good service gives me twice the reason to return and spend more money.


Our visit to Ella was especially nice, because the wife and I don't get to dress up and go out for an extravagant evening very often.  I wanted to wear a suit.  She wanted to wear a dress.  And the evening at Ella made me feel like we had all the money in the world available to spend on all of the finer foods in life (we don't).  The excellent food and service is something I can still feel the affects of whenever I think about that evening.

Restaurant reviews: a trip to Oregon.

I have another website.  It's mainly for comics, drumming, and general blogging, but last year my wife and I took a trip to Oregon and we, of course, stopped at some local joints to eat.  In chronological order, we ate at:

Louies's Bar and Grill - Ashland, OR

Marché Café - Eugene, OR

Pietro’s Pizza – Salem, OR

Mo’s Annex – Newport, OR

Harbor Light Family Restaurant – Reedsport, OR


Chain restaurants are easy to visit when you're looking for something to eat.  They're plentiful and you pretty much know what you're getting into when you order from their menu; everything you're familiar with promises to be there.  And, being a chain, the quality of the food is fairly consistent from location to location.

There's nothing wrong with eating at a chain restaurant if you like their food.  However, when traveling, I think it's important to stop at a local restaurant, especially if the restaurant deals with local cuisines.  Places like Mo's Annex and the Harbor Light Family Restaurant are along the coast and serve seafood dishes, so we had a chance to try some of the local seafood.  Some chains are unique to an area, like Pietro's, a pizza chain found only in Oregon.

Then there are places like Louie's and the Marché Café, a bar and grill and French-style cafe, respectively.  Restaurants and eateries like these may not seem unique when you look at the menu: burgers, fries, steak baguette, salad... these are foods you can get at almost any other similar restaurant across the country.  But what's important to consider is that every restaurant is unique.  First, some local restaurants use local foods.  Check the menu.  Second, a burger joint in one area of town isn't going to be the same as another one across town.  Places like Louie's is unique to Ashland because, though they might sell a simple cheeseburger, that cheeseburger is going to be very different from the one you'll get from Ford's in Sacramento, CA.  Every restaurant does things just a little bit differently.  Sometimes, a lot differently.  Eating at a local restaurant lets you in on where the locals like to eat.  It gives you a clue as to why the locals are attracted to the place.  Maybe it's the decor.  Maybe it's the service.  Or maybe the food.  Perhaps all three.

True, maybe you do have a place like Louie's or Mo's or Pietro's in your town, but the adventure is in seeing what the differences are.

Time to eat... and to blog about it.

I've tried to write this post - a little here, a little there - all day, trying to justify adding yet another food blog to the nigh infinite digital ocean that is the Internet.

See, I love food.  The only thing keeping me from going to culinary school in preparation to work in a professional kitchen is a) Anthony Bourdain's Kitchen Confidential (made me think twice about the vocation), and b) I'd like to be able to have time away from work to spend the money I make; I'm not sure I'm prepared to work at a restaurant 60 hours a week.

But at home, with friends... food.  I like talking about it.  I like making it.  I like sharing it and receiving it.  And, of course, I like eating it.  Food is good.

Like many an avid eater, I have scoured the World Wide Interwebs in search of restaurant reviews, preferring to find those that are well-written and thoughtful.  As a home cook, aside from my books and DVDs, the web is my source to find various versions of recipes to use as references when deciding how I want to make a dish.  Equipment reviews?  I always do research when making a major purchase and I want an educated review.

There is a ton of information out there, especially in the way of recipe collections.  With the advent of online communities such as Yelp! and staples like Zagat, restaurant reviews are easily accessible from both Average Joe and Josephine and critics alike.  Equipment reviews?  America's Test Kitchen is pretty handy. Then there is the plethora of independent bloggers, like me, who just want to weigh in on the subject in any of the aforementioned capacities.

So why start a blog about food when there's plenty of online food resources available?

First, I have found that many times, there just isn't enough information for me, or there just isn't enough trustworthy information... take your pick.  I want an educated review.  I want facts that I can believe because the source/writer has given me sufficient reason to do so.  I want references when necessary.  And I want details.  "Didn't cut it for me," just isn't going to cut it for me when reading a review.  Was the restaurant's food bad?  Did that pan melt on you? Did that recipe call for too much cream of mushroom soup from a can?  I want to know.  And not just for the bad stuff, either.  I want to know why something is supposedly good, too.

(Not to worry.  I will practice what I preach)

Second, I want to share.  I want to share what I eat, what I drink.  I want to share what restaurants I visit.  I want to share my thoughts on kitchen tools.  I want to share my opinions.  Yay for blogs.  Anyone that can use a computer, knows what words are, and can almost construct complete, comprehensible sentences can now tell the world what's on their mind.  I'm one of those anyones.

Third, it's fun.

Sharing and fun... those are two things that are wonderful about food, aren't they?  You know, besides the actual eating and tasting.  Food is something almost everyone can related to (I say almost because I do know people that don't like to eat.  Inconceivable, I say).  Most people enjoy good food, whether it's a greasy slider or seared scallops slightly seasoned in kosher salt and a drizzle of lemon.  And those that enjoy good food want to know where to get good food.  Some want to know how to make it themselves.  All of this knowledge can be shared, and knowing that I've given someone the means to find something good to eat?

That's a good feeling.