The Rind - Sacramento, CA - Opening Day (5-23-2013)

I feel like there was a big hype around The Rind.  I also feel like I'm wrong about that.

You see, a friend of mine told about this place, that it was opening up soon.  After checking it out on Yelp, I found out that it specializes in wine, beer, and cheese.  Awesome, I thought... we need a place for cheese lovers here in Sacramento.

Located in Midtown Sacramento on L St., where it occupies the old L Wine Bar spot, The Rind is a small place with a small menu serving small samples of cheese.  It's a nice little place; the decor doesn't really leave a huge impression, but it's bright, inviting, and seems like a fun place to sit, hang out, have a glass of wine or two or six, and sample some cheese.

Their wine list was unexpectedly small.  They also have a selection of craft beers, both bottled and draft - the kind you'd find only at places that specialize in carrying premium beers, like gastropubs or bars such as The Shack, Kupros, or, in this case, The Rind.

It was fairly warm on opening day.  While I usually default to reds, I decided to go with a white wine.  Based on our first cheese board's pairing suggestions (which I didn't want) and my tastes, our server pointed to a dry riesling, which was damn good.

Speaking of service, it is nice enough and they've obviously been briefed about the food they're serving.  Being opening day they did seem a little scattered.  It got relatively busy and I can only imagine how close to a dress rehearsal the day must have seemed like.

There are three prix fixe cheese boards, the cheeses being grouped by a common trait.  The night's cheese menu features a sheep's milk board, a "macho" cheese board that consisted of Chimay cheese and a gouda, and a soft cheese board.  Each cheese board comes with different accompaniments, such as fruit, nuts, honey... the usual stuff.

We started with the board of soft cheeses, the "Purgatory Board".  The wine paired very well, the dryness complimenting the stronger flavors of the cheese in a way that makes you go, "Oh... that's nice."  I ordered a second glass of the same wine before we'd decided to get a second board - sheep's milk cheese - which was comprised of semi-soft cheese.  These had subtler, nuttier, mellower flavors.  My "accidental" wine pairing wasn't bad, but didn't give me that, "Oh!" pronouncement of flavor.

They offer a fourth board built of cheese of your choice, so you basically have twelve cheeses to choose from.  Their cheese menu is subject to change, which I think is a good thing as it keeps the offerings fresh.

There are other things on the menu - salads and soups - but the main attraction, other than the cheese boards, are the mac-n-cheese and the grilled cheese sandwiches.  While we didn't partake of these dishes, I'd say those are smart things to have on the menu.  It gives the cheese a cooked application in a manner that is familiar but with some liberties.

During our visit, I did wish there was a charcuterie plate.  Lo and behold, their website shows they're supposed to have one.  Perhaps they were just limiting their menu for opening day.  However, I would have spent more money if it had been offered.

Prices are very, very resonable for a place that serves fine cheese.  $12 for a prix fixe cheese board while the choose-your-own ("The Diving Board") is $14, if I remember correctly.  They do sell some wine by the glass.  Between four glasses of wine and two cheese boards, we got out of there for around $65 before tip.

I'm not quite sure how I'd rate The Rind just yet, or if I should rate it at all right now.  It was the first day and there will be some kinks to work out and probably even some changes.  While I am the type of person that wants to see the A-game right out of the gate, I know that's not how things always work.  I would be inclined to rate the place 3.5 stars if you were ask me right now, but not because it's an average place.  For what it's trying to do - bringing artisan cheeses to restaurant-going cheese lovers - it is unique.  There are some places in Sacramento that offer cheese plates but nowhere that is cheese-centric like The Rind (not counting fondue).  The wine and beer list, while good, are pretty small for a restaurant whose slogan is "Cheese. Wine.  Beer."  But perhaps my expectations were too high.  For example, when I go to a place that is supposed to specialize in wine, I expect an extensive list.

Then again, maybe they're being very selective, catering their drink selection to the cheeses they're currently serving.  And that would be very reasonable.  And smart.  And interesting.  And educational.  All things I can support.  If that's the case, they might do well to make mention of that on their menu so that customers know the proprietors want to present specific food and drink selections they know to work well together and that is what is going to enhance the eating experience of each diner that visitsThe Rind.

But, if that's not the case, then really the place becomes a little cafe that centers around cheese.

No matter the case, Sacramento now has a place for cheese lovers.  I'm not going to give The Rind an official rating just yet.  I'm going to go back.  I'm going to drink and I'm going to eat.  Until then, I say: if you love cheese, wine, and beer, give this nice little place a shot.

1801 L Street

Suite 40

Sacramento, CA 95811

www.therindsacramento.com

Mighty Kong Cafe - Sacramento, CA... CLOSED!

On May 2, 2013, Mighty Kong Cafe closed.

I think that's pretty sad.

The breakfast/lunch place was located on Stockton Blvd. here in Sacramento, right at the edge of Oak Park where it transitions into Tahoe Park.  Think Luigi's Pizza, right off 14th Ave., and you've got the spot.  Not the greatest area in terms of upkeep, but not the worst, either.

I had never seen the place empty when I'd go in to eat.  Granted, I had only been twice, but I could tell just from walking into the place that this was an establishment people liked to visit and have good comfort food - food that was very well-prepared and had just enough class to make each dish seem more elevated than it really was... but in a good way.

The prices were very reasonable, the portions were filling, the food was tasty, the service was pleasant... on my first visit, the owner went to each table asking if the diners wanted a complimentary mimosa and some free muffins.  He talked to everyone, but not in an invasive way that disturbed the meal.  The guy just wanted it known: this was his house and you are very welcome in it.

There's good food in that area if you look, but it was nice to see the Mighty Kong Cafe try to "spruce things up" a bit by doing something other than the quick eats, the cheap eats, the everyday eats.  In the surrounding joints you'll find pizza, burgers, taquerias, Chinese/Vietnamese, fast food... all places in which you can sit down to eat, but you still know where you are when you do: Stockon Blvd. in between Oak Park and Tahoe Park.

But in the Mighty Kong Cafe, you were in a completely different environment.  Inside was a place that did not match the outside.  It was dim, cozy, comfortable, well-maintained, and had a vibe that countered its location in such a way where you might be a little surprised at first, but then you welcomed it immediately.

I'm sorry to see you close, Mighty Kong.  At least, for the fans of your muffins, you will continue to live on somehow.  As a restaurant, however, I wish you'd lived longer.  It was nice having a place like you in that area.

Kupros Bistro - Sacramento, CA

I've been to Kupros several times.  Many times.

Okay, I'm a bit of a regular.  Semi-regular, but a regular nonetheless.  I've become a familiar with a couple of the waitresses and bartenders, and those I've become familiar with know my name.  I've had many beers and sampled much of the food.

And in the time I've been going to Kupros my opinion hasn't really changed, but, in fact, has become reinforced by multiple visits.

I really, really like the place, but it's actually just a pretty good place to visit.

Let's start with the service.  It's the first thing you notice when you walk in and take a seat at the bar.  When a bar is busy, you don't expect to be acknowledged right away.  You need to wait until the bartender gets to you.  It's the nature of a busy bar.  But when a bar isn't busy, when there are plenty of open seats, you - I - expect to be acknowledged, either with a, "Be right with you," or a nod, or... something.

Customer acknowledgement is iffy at Kupros.  Some of the bartenders will acknowledge you.  Especially if they know you.  Other times, you can sit down at an empty bar but you'll be waiting five to ten minutes while the bartender is off in their own world.  Possibly at the cash register.  Okay, he/she is working.  Or they're talking to another co-worker.  Okay, he/she is wor- oh, nope, they're laughing and just hanging out.  I've found it's not a big deal; when you go to a bar, you're there to relax, so there's no rush to have someone come and serve you, but I do find it odd that when the bar is near empty the service isn't more immediate.

Now, despite the deficiency in greeting, the service itself - the actual service - is very, very friendly.  Most of the people I've met there are really nice, make conversation, and make you feel welcome once they've acknowledged you.  When there's time, expect to make small talk with one of the bartenders or a server that is in between tables.  When I'm there, I don't feel like I'm just another number out for alcohol.  I feel relaxed, invited, and befriended.  It can be hard to just leave after paying the tab without saying goodbye and thank you to the person who has served you.

The service is befitting the environment, because it really is a good-looking house. Literally.  It's a house that's been beautifully remodeled.  It really is a comfortable place to go and have a drink and a bite to eat.  It's replete with semi-dark wood but not in a gaudy way.  The stained glass above the bar adds a splash of color in an otherwise brown room, which give the room a bit of life.  The bar is smack dab in the middle with tables lining the perimeter and there's seating upstairs for a more private, quieter time.

Now, let's get to the food.

When a small plate listing is titled "Mixed Greens" and described as being a plate of mixed, seasonal vegetables, and what is served is just a spring-mix salad with a vinaigrette, one does feel a large sense of disappointment.  And psychology does have a great affect on how one perceives their meal.  So, as you can imagine, when I received my plate of the so-called "Mixed Greens", I wondered why I got the smallest salad in the world.

Kupros serves a variety of fries, from regular to garlic, from sweet to poutine, the Canadian staple of fries, gravy, and cheese curds.  Fries, in my opinion, should be crispy on the outside.  I'm pretty sure that the opinion of the majority of French fry lovers.  And for good reason.  Soggy fries and just not fun to eat.  A crispy fry provides a contrast of textures in a single bite: the crisp crunch of the golden, brown, and delicious outside, and the soft, mealy inside.

I have not once had a crispy French fry at Kupros.

The fries at Kupros are pretty one-dimensional in texture.  When they arrive, they appear brown and tasty, but they're flimsy and floppy, no matter how thick they are.  You can see the oil glistening in the ambient lighting, but when you bite into one you may as well be biting into a roasted potato stick.  There could be any number of reasons for such a soft French fry: perhaps they don't blanch them beforehand, prepping them to be finished off in hot, hot oil; maybe they sit in the window too long before they're run to the table; maybe the oil isn't hot enough.  In any case, a soggy fry is an unappetizing fry, even when covered in gravy and cheese curds.

(And yes, there's a difference between a soft fry and a fry that's crisp but softened by gravy)

There are other deficiencies in the food, but to get to the point, the best food you can order at Kupros is the hearty comfort food.  The mac-and-cheese is good.  The pappardelle with puttanesca is a favorite of mine, when it's on the menu.  The chicken piccata is light and simple yet very enjoyable.  The burger, while note quite worth $11, is quite good - too much cheese, though, and reminiscent of a Squeeze Inn-style burger but without the actual fried cheese skirt.  But, decent enough.  Filling, tasty, and featuring good ingredients.

When you've got a little bit of money but want a decent amount of food, they do offer a 3-small-plates-for-$10 deal, which gives you a good sampling and is enough for a small, shared meal for two.

And let's not forget about the liquor.  They have a good collection of whiskey and Scotch, a small wine list, and plenty of beer.  They have good draft selection and as well as a premium bottled selection.  They even have domestic swill on hand for those that like to drink beer-flavored soda water on the cheap.

So, why do I like the place so much?  Comfort.  It's such a comfortable place to go and have a drink, get some enjoyable food, and sit.  I feel welcome there.  I like the environment.  I feel sociable, even when I'm not in a social mood.  It's just... nice.  It's really, really nice.  It's such an easy place to become a regular at that I've become a regular.  And I enjoy it.

The verdict?

	I would never go to another bar.
	I frequent this place like I frequent my own refrigerator.
	As comfortable as a good lounge chair.
	It'll do in a pinch.
	Why bother?

I give Kupros 3.5 stars.  I feel comfortable and invited every time I come here, and I do come here often enough to be considered a regular customer.  It's not the greatest place you can go to for food and drink, but it's still quite good.

Kupros Bistro

1217 21st Street

Sacramento, CA 95811

(916) 440-0401
www.kuprosbistro.com